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Edgebanding & Veneers

Veneer is an excellent, inexpensive alternative to solid wood. Veneer is cut in four different methods depending on species and usage of the end product.

Rotary Cut - The log is cut with pressure from a broad cutting knife against a rotating log. The log is placed between centers of what is basically a huge lathe, and the veneer is peeled off as if the log were a giant roll of paper towels.

Plain Sliced / Flat Sawn - The log is cut in half, slicing is done parallel to a line through the center of the log opposite the heart, generating a variant grain with a cathedral appearance.

Quarter Sawn - The log is quartered, slicing is done with the growth rings striking the knife at 90% angle, leaving you a series of stripes and in some species fleck.

Rift Sawn - The log has been quartered, slicing is done with the growth rings striking the knife slightly off a 90% angle, producing a straight or comb like grain minimizing fleck.

Typical thicknesses for veneer range from 1/100" to 1/28". The thinner material is used to make flexible, or reinforced, veneer. The thicker (often called common or natural veneer) has no backing and is available in many species and sizes. Sold by the square foot, it comes in random widths and lengths. Even thicker veneers (1/10" to 3/16") are used as inner cores in the manufacture of plywood.

Flexible veneer is rapidly becoming more popular than common veneer, and for good reason - it is significantly easier to work with. Because flexible veneer is thinner than common veneer, it's reinforced with a backing that allows it to bend around a smaller radius without breaking. It is available in 24" and 48" widths and in 4' or 8' lengths other sizes available thru special order. It is cut from domestic and exotic wood species.

Another useful veneer product is edge banding, which is essentially strips of veneer packaged in rolls. You can quickly give the appearance of solid wood to a standard piece of plywood by applying edge banding. Rolls are available in widths starting at 1/2", on up with a variety of lengths. Real wood edge-banding can usually be found in the same species as flexible veneer.

The secret to successfully applying both veneer and edge-banding is to apply it to a smooth, clean surface. Vacuum the surface thoroughly to remove all dust and sanding grit. Even the smallest speck on the surface will prevent a good bond.

Both veneer and edge banding can be attached in one of three ways.

  • The easiest method is to use a self-stick pressure-sensitive adhesive (peel and stick). Just peel off the protective backing, and press the veneer in place.
  • Hot melt products may be applied with an automatic machine or have adhesive pre-applied to their backs. Hold in position, and re-melt the glue by using a table top hot air edge bander or pressing the veneer with a household iron, typically on the wool setting. (Tip: Keep melted glue off of the iron's face by covering it with aluminum foil.)
  • Finally, apply plain (paper-backed) veneer or banding by coating both the material and the surface to be covered with contact cement. Once that has dried, press the two pieces together and apply firm pressure using a veneer hammer and a blunt edge scraper to form an instant bond.